Island Peak Nepal: Everything about Island Peak Climbing

Imja Tse, better known as Island Peak, is a mountain in the Sagarmatha National Park of the Himalayas in eastern Nepal. The peak was named Island Peak in 1953 by members of the British Mount Everest Expedition because from Dingboche it appears like an island in an ocean of ice. Later the peak was renamed Imja Tse in 1983, but Island Peak remains the most commonly used name. The peak is in fact an extension of the ridge coming down from the southern end of Lhotse Shar.

The southwest summit of Imja Tse was first climbed in 1953 as part of a training exercise of a British expedition that went to the summit of Mount Everest. The team that climbed Imja Tse consisted of Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie and seven other Sherpas. The main summit was first climbed in 1956 by Hans-Rudolf von Gunten and two unknown Sherpas, members of a Swiss team that made the second ascent of Everest and the first ascent of Lhotse.

If you've ever climbed Kilimanjaro, you may have wondered what it would be like to cross the 6000-meter mark. Indeed, Kilimanjaro is a five-thousander at 5,895 meters. Island Peak, at an altitude of 6,189 meters, is popular with beginners and serves as a preparation for higher mountains such as Everest. Although it is physically demanding, it requires relatively little technique and can be climbed by anyone who is reasonably fit. Of course it is not that easy. It needs a solid crash course in high altitude mountaineering, but with a good guide you can do something really special.

The best way to acclimatize for an Island Peak ascent is to combine it with a trek in the Everest region. A trek to Everest Base Camp Trek is the perfect preparation for an Island Peak ascent. This allows for proper acclimatization while you can spend more time in Khumbu. A typical trek begins after a short flight to Lukla. The trails will take you to Phakding, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (Sagarmatha National Park) in the green valley of Dudh Koshi and on to the famous Namche Bazaar, where we will spend two nights for acclimatization. The trekking continues from Tengboche to Pheriche and to Lobuche; these Sherpa villages rich in culture are full of chortens, mani walls, museums and fantastic views of the Himalayas.

Before the expected Island Peak you will visit the Everest Base Camp and climb to Kalapathar. Kalapathar is popular with hikers as you can enjoy a full sunrise or sunset over Mount Everest. Finally we hike to the Base Camp of Island Peak and climb the summit on day 12. The hard work is rewarded by a 360 degree panoramic view of mountains like Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Makalu. From there we hike up and down again until the exciting experience of Everest Base Camp with Island Peak Trekking ends again in Kathmandu.

There haven't been to many Island Peak Deaths in recent years. Of course, you are not as exposed on Island Peak as you are on Mount Everest and the likes. However, the few Island Peaks that have been registered were caused by altitude sickness. If you keep reading you will find a good itinerary which will allow you to acclimatize for climbing Island Peak. Also, you can read about how to prevent altitude sickness, the number one cause for trouble in the Himalaya.

The Everest region, like the rest of Nepal, has 4 different seasons. Spring, summer, autumn and winter. The months from February to May, before the monsoon, and from October to December, after the monsoon, are the most popular for trekking tours Island Peak. Climbing Island Peak is not possible during the monsoon season. What needs to be said is that each trekking season has its own excitement and atmosphere for hikers, but if you want to have some assurance about the weather conditions during the trek, be sure to stick to the high season. You can also climb Island Peak in the winter months, but you will need to revise your packing list and prepare for temperatures well below -15 Celsius.

For trekking to Everest Base Camp and climbing Island Peak, you need the following permits:

TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System)

This permit is important for every trekker wishing to trek in Nepal. From theAnnapurna Circuitto the trek to Poon Hill, all trekking routes require this permit. This costs NRS 2000 per person. This equals about 17 USD or 15 EUR. Alternatively, your trekking company arranges you a location permit in Lukla which costs around 20 USD.

Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

For entering the Sagarmatha National Park, the park that is home to the Mount Everest Region, you need to obtain an entry permit. This permit costs 30 USD + government tax.

Island Peak Climbing Permit

In addition to all the above mentioned permits, your trekking company also takes care of your Island Peak climbing permit. Without a valid permit you are not allowed to climb Island Peak.

If you live anywhere else other than the Himalayas, it will be hard to get your legs ready for higher altitudes. After all, it doesn’t get much higher than Nepal. This is why we have to be clear upfront: Unless you have hiked at a higher altitude before, it will be difficult to get a 100% ready for your adventure. If that sounds bad to you, then comfort yourself with the fact that there is absolutely no need to be 100% ready. You are not climbing K2 or Mount Everest and not running a mountain race. This is trekking and Island Peak is a trekking peak. You are actually supposed to take it easy. Taking it easy is a rule of thumb when you want to prevent altitude sickness while out in Nepal. It doesn’t matter how fit you are, once you are out there on the trails, you have to stick to your own pace. But of course, the fitter you are, the more you can enjoy your time. Get fit!

Should I Hike More?

One solid approach to get the hang of what you do is to rehearse. The best practice for climbing is climbing. Seeing that you are keen on a multi-day trekking experience, we accept that you enjoy walking. Awesome, do it more. If you are fortunate to be encompassed by some hills or even mountains, the time has come to see them all the more frequently. When? In the event that you are new to this, we recommend beginning a half year the start of your trek, essentially going for 60 minutes (or two) climb seven days. When you get the hang of it, after around three weeks, you will have an ideal opportunity to reinforce your power. Convey a pack of 10 to 15kg and include a more drawn out climb of three hours to your week. On the off chance that this way of life is different to you, you will before long receive the rewards of this moderate exercise.

What Are The Health Benefits of an Island Peak Trek?

Some of the health benefits of trekking and hikinginclude a lower risk of heart disease, improved blood pressure and sugar levels and of course it helps to control your weight. Once you are ready for the hills, it only gets better. According to Gregory Miller, president of the American Hiking Society, ”a 5% to 10% incline equals a 30% to 40% increase in calorie burn.” Our personal health benefits are a clearer mind and an elevated mood. Trekking keeps us sane. After a good few months of solid hiking, it is time to put your endurance to the test. Do back to back long hikes. You can simulate a few days of constant trekking by going hiking for a few days. Easy at that. Plan a smaller trekking holiday or keep it simple by hiking your favorite route on repeat. If you are comfortable hiking for 4 hours a day, 3 days in a row while carrying a 10kg to 15kg backpack, you will be fine.

There is more you can do to get ready for your climbing Island Peak but the above basics will definitely help you on your way. You can focus on strength exercise, you can simulate altitude with altitude masks. There's a lot you can do. Check this blog post if you want to read more about getting fit for climbing Island Peak.

Your gear is your best friend while being out in the mountains. It, in fact, doesn’t matter where you are going, your equipment is key. In extreme cases, gear can make the difference between life and death. In every case, the right equipment can make the difference between you having a good time and ending up miserable. You have booked your tickets, your guide in Nepal is waiting and now you rock up with a too heavy backpack, a jacket which is not thick enough and shoes that are very likely going to give you blisters. What a waste. Pack the right gear and make more of your trip to Everest Base Camp and Island Peak.

Below we present you a basic comprehensive packing list suitable for any trek in Nepal including:

Basics:

- Duffel Bag

- Rucksack with Rain Cove Daypack

- Hiking Boots

- Sandals or Shoes

- Hiking Socks

- Trekking Poles

- Inner Socks

- Thermal Baselayer

- T-Shirts

- Fleece Pullover or Jacket

- Light Weight Thermal Tops

- Waterproof Jacket

- Sports Bra for Her

- Hiking Shorts

- Hiking Pants

- Waterproof Pants

Basics for Climbing Mera Peak:

- Ice axe

- Ice screws

- Snow bars - Crampons

- Harness

- Tape Slings (2)

- Screwgate Karabiners (2 lock, 2 unlock)

- Descender/Abseil Device

- Plastic Mountaineering Boots

- Ascender

- Helmet (optional)

- Ice Hammer

The above-mentioned basics for Mera Peak can be rented directly from your trekking company.

Obviously there is more you can pack and bring along. Everyone is different, so everyone has their own needs. If you want the ultimate packing list, you can simply go here.